Hundstalsee, Tyrol, Austria
Out of the dozens of photos I took, these are the best three I have from a 2-day hike to Hundstalsee. In summer 2019 my friend Marta and I made the trek to the lake. We’d seen pictures of it, and knew it was somewhere in Tyrol, but couldn’t find any information about it online.
If you’re interested in doing what we did, I’ve included some directions further down the page.
The trip started with the best of intentions, we waited weeks for our schedules to line up and picked the sunniest day we could for the hike. We packed light and planned to sleep under the stars.
We slept late and left Innsbruck late. By time our train got to Inzing Banhof it was clear we’d be hiking in the hottest part of the day on one of the hottest days of the summer.
When we arrived (late) at Inzinger Alm, our point of no return, an un-forecasted thunderstorm set in, soaking any ground we may have planned to sleep on. Without any hope of camping, we thought we might have to miss the lake and take a 3-4 hour hike back in the dark, potentially missing the last train home.
The farmers at the Alm took pity on us and offered us cheap beds and hot showers. We were able to set out at around 6:30 the next morning for breakfast and coffee near the perfectly still Hundstalsee.
The Hike to Hundstalsee
Quick Stats
Hiking Time: Routes vary. From 9-12 hours departing from the train station, 2.5-4 hours departing from Inzinger Alm.
Distance: Roughly 20km, route dependent. Around 7km from the Alm.
Vertical Ascent: 1675m
Difficulty: Intermediate- lots of distance and uphill with some easy scrambling near the top.
There 2 different “sections” to this hike: the approach to Inzinger Alm can be done by car (cheaters) and from the Alm you’ll take the direct trail up to the lake and back. If you plan on driving to the Alm, the second section is detailed further down the page.
This is a big day trip, but possible if you are more prepared than we were. To break it into two days you can call Inzinger Alm and try to book a bed, or you might get lucky with a bed if you show up on the day. A small hot shower, bed, and breakfast spread cost us €25 each in 2019. An additional €14 got me a beer, and one of the best Käsespatzl’n (A Tirolean dish, not unlike mac and cheese) I’ve had in Austria for dinner.
Section 1: Inzing Banhof to Inzinger Alm
There are two approaches to this, and if you want to keep it fresh you can take one way up, and the other down. We went on the Eastern Route up, and took the Western Route down- which is what I recommend.
The Western Route
Hiking Time: Around 3 hours.
Distance: 7km
Vertical Ascent: 1014m
Difficulty: Easy- the forest road is quite shallow if the hiking trail seems steep.
The western route is the most direct, but least scenic- which is why I prefer taking it as a descent. After pounding pavement for 30 minutes you’ll follow a steep trail along the forest road to the Alm. It should take around 3 hours going up, and 2.5 coming back down.
Head to the west of the river “Enterbach”, and follow the Hof/Mühtal road. At a certain point, this road becomes the Inzinger Alm road and starts to switchback up the mountain.
At around 900m elevation, after the first big right-hand turn, there is a hiking trail branching off to the left. This track crosses the road several times as you ascend the next 500-600m.
Eventually, the trail ends and you’ll follow a much gentler slope along the road to the Alm.
The Eastern Route
Hiking Time: Around 4 hours.
Distance: 10km
Vertical Ascent: 1014m
Difficulty: Easy to Intermediate- the trail can get steep and narrow at times but is well maintained.
The eastern route is more disheartening for the first hour or so, as you’ll be ascending on pavement through pastures and suburbs. However, once you enter the forest, you’ll cross much more interesting terrain, and the climb won’t be as steep as the western route. It took us about 4 hours going up, and would likely take 3.5-4 hours going down.
Set out on the east of the river “Enterbach”. You’ll walk fairly straight along a paved road (Kohlstatt) before reaching a bench and a view of the river/creek.
The road then hooks sharply to the left, and you’ll ascend some steep pavement. Take the next right up the road “Eben” take the first right off of this road and follow the zig-zagging pavement through the meadows.
Eventually, this trail gives way to a gravel road, at around 1200m elevation there is a left turn into a forest trail that takes you up to the Alm. This trail is quite narrow, but well established with plenty of signposts at the junctions- this was my favourite section of trail on the whole trip. Well worth it!
There is also the possibility to take the chairlift from Oberperfuss to Ranggerköpfl and traverse across to Inzinger Alm. You could stay or eat in Rosskogelhütte if you approached from this direction, but I haven’t tried this so I can’t offer much advice!
Section 2: Inzinger Alm to Hundstalsee
Bonus: This section of the hike is marked on Alpenvereinaktiv.
Hiking Time: 2.5 to 3.5 hours
Distance: Around 7km
Vertical Ascent: 661m
Difficulty: Moderate. Switchbacks in steep terrain with an almost-scramble near the top.
No matter which route you took (or if you cheated and drove), Inzinger Alm is where all the trails meet. Grab a coffee and a snack to refuel before the final section!
Follow the sign and head south from the Alm. There is only a single trail up to the lake that you’ll need to go up and back on. It will take you somewhere between 2.5-3.5 hours as a round trip, not counting a break at the lake.
The hike is a bit more technical from the Alm. It’s about to get steep, with a few loose bits. The trail switchbacks up to a rancher’s hut on the hill, then the grade flattens out slightly.
The final push over the ridge is over rocky terrain and is on the west side of the stream. We lost the trail here and had to make a not-so-safe water crossing hallway up. The trail is on the west side (lookers right).
Your final destination is pretty obvious- it’s the rock hut on the other side of the lake. It’s a peaceful stop for a lunch/coffee break, and there is a cool walkway out into the water (great for a photo op).
Take a moment to rest up for the trek back down. Assuming you didn’t drive, you have a minimum, a 4-hour hike back to the train station, with 1675m elevation to descend.
Posted 19/1/2020
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